Fastpacking Rheinsteig
Richard Dirksen

Richard Dirksen

Fastpacking The Rheinsteig Trail – Day 2

Fastpacking The Rheinsteig Trail – Day 2

My fastpacking adventure will take me today from Lorch to ‘middle-of-don’t have a clue-nowhere’ Covering some 23K and 900Vertical Meters with beautiful castles, stunning views and very, very nice people along the way. However, the start of this beautiful day was not so beautiful…


So cccccoldddd….

Like I mentioned in my previous blog about this fastpacking adventure, sleeping in a hammock without under-blanket in 0 degrees Celcius is a very (VERY!!!) bad idea!! (although the spot itself was great)

During the night I had to get up 2 times to get me more clothes on. A buff, cloves, arm-pieces, 2 shirts and jacket had to do it, but didn’t. So around 4.30 – 5 o’clock I just couldn’t take it anymore and decided to get out of bed and start doing something to get warm. Because by that time my hands couldn’t stop shivering anymore. Time was of the essence and I knew I had to rise my heartbeat to warm up. So 15 minutes later, looking like Michelin to start with and ending in my flashy Thermo underwear doing squats, lunges, push-up and burpees. Luckily it was very early and no one was out to see me. ‘Cause if there was, I would have ended up in a mental clinic that morning.

Once my hands stopped shivering I quickly dismantled my hammock setup. Which, by the way, goes quicker with a tent. Or maybe I need more practice to get it done quicker. We’ll see, I am learning.

By the time I finally managed to pack my sh%@! together, I was so cold that I couldn’t notice the birds welcoming the day, or see the dawn, and sun coming through the trees. My only focus was to go fastpacking and get warm, so I even left without having a coffee first. But I must say, the forest looks very magical so early in the morning.

After an hour or 2 later I decided to call Heike, I needed a pep talk! (I felt soooooo sorry for myself!) Only then I noticed I had true blue fingers and my hands were still shivering. Hearing her voice made did brighten up my day immediately. Like if the sun was rising over the mountains and I instantly start feeling warm again. Incredible what power love has.


But finally, after hours, all was well again and the fastpacking adventure could finally continue: time to hit the trails big time!

Fastpacking trail

This section gives one a pretty good idea what hiking and trail running are all about. That’s, of course, the reason so many people come to enjoy this trail. ‘The Romance of the Rhein’ can be sensed everywhere.

Trying to be a tourist

Burg Pfalzgrafenstein
Burg Pfalzgrafenstein

In the section, I crossed the village Kaub. Kaub is known for its castle Pfalz, or Burg Pfalzgrafenstein. It’s situated on a rock in the middle of the Rhine. According to legend, the Palatine countesses awaited their confinement in the Pfalz, but in reality, the castle served as a toll-gate for merchandise on the Rhine. Needless to mention that there was no way of passing it without being noticed. The (restored) castle Gutenfels sits on a hill above the town.

Hammock & bathtub
Hammock & bathtub

By the end of day two, I found a little farmhouse with a massive rainwater reservoir and….a bathtub! And yes, of course, I had a bath that day, what do you think 😁 Also, because it hadn’t rain for some time, dry wood for my stove was not a problem to gather. Again I had one of Heike’s 3 Star Michelin meals, brushed my teeth and went for a well-earned sleep. And this time WITH the under-blanket. To be treated in the morning with probably the most beautiful morning I experienced during my whole fastpacking adventure.

DJI 0184

I woke up with such an incredibly beautiful view with the sun rising over the Rhein that I decided not to waste time. I quickly dismantled my hammock setup, packed my pack and set down to enjoy a coffee in complete silence with this breathtaking view, slowly preparing myself to start day 3. What a treat was that morning…

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